Erdem, spring-summer 2024

In Erdem’s spring/summer collection, Erdem Moralioglu never stops exploring the contents of Deborah “Debo” Cavendish’s wardrobe. Deborah was the wife of the Duke of Devonshire and she loved country clothes, rare breeds of chickens and ball gowns.

The designer did a great job with Debo’s files and even transferred the flowers from her curtains to the skirts of her evening dresses and coats. Made according to the mosaic principle, they looked more like blankets, but in combination with opera gloves they looked luxurious. “I was lucky enough to work with textile and jewelery archivists at Chatsworth, as well as Helen Marchant, Deborah’s former private secretary,” said Erdem’s creative director. There were several other interesting details in the collection. For example, dragonfly brooches and tiaras that look like insect antennae are a delicate homage to Cavendish’s love of collecting beetle jewelry, which, by the way, she passed down to her granddaughter Stella Tennant. And elegant fabric origami shoes: hello to Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.

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